An exceptionally beautiful and wonderfully useful piece of antique jewellery hardware, dating to the Victorian Etruscan Revival period, circa 1870-1890.
 
Crafted in high-carat yellow gold, professionally testing at approximately 18ct, this antique shepherd’s hook has a beautifully elongated, almost teardrop-shaped body with a softly textured finish, embellished to one side with clusters of applied gold beadwork reminiscent of the ancient granulation techniques that inspired Etruscan Revival jewellery.
 
The contrast between the sculptural decorative body and the beautifully simple, slender hook gives this piece such an elegant silhouette - and at 39mm long, it has enough presence to become a feature within a chain stack rather than simply disappearing as a functional fitting.
 
Shepherd’s hooks of this type were traditionally associated with Victorian watch and guard chains, where detachable hooks allowed a watch, fob or other small accessory to be attached and removed with ease. During the nineteenth century, women commonly wore long guard chains from which watches and decorative objects could be suspended, and beautifully made fittings such as this could be both practical and ornamental.
 
Today, it becomes the ultimate antique styling piece. Use it to connect two chains, add additional length to a necklace, suspend a pendant or locket, or load it with charms. It looks particularly fabulous worn towards the front or side of a neck mess, allowing the original Victorian fitting itself to become part of the design.
 
In good antique condition, the bail shows evidence of historical repair, commensurate with the age and history of the piece. It may have originally swivelled but is now soldered in place.
 
A rare survivor in approximately 18ct gold, and a particularly beautiful example of the Victorian obsession with the jewellery and craftsmanship of the ancient world.